When you’re all the way down the rabbit hole with coffee there’s only one consistent rule. “There are no consistent rules.” I love rule breakers. Coffees that throw off conventional norms and assumptions, and remind us of the exciting fact that there is always more to learn in coffee. So let’s talk about Brazil.
Brazil probably has more assumptions, good and bad, about its coffee than any other country. This year we visited a couple of new regions to explore these assumptions. Espirito Santo was a region that impressed us imediately. Lying on the sea with a more tropical climate, inland it quickly rises into the Serra do Caparaõ range of mountains. The climate is influenced by the cold Falklands oceanic current, so the mountaineous coffee growing regions have a terroir overall not unlike Huila, Colombia.
It was here that we found this coffee from Fernando Douro. His farm, Sitio Sao Vicente, was started by his father. Together they have a quality focus and have invested in raised beds, innovative depulping technology, and brought the farm to the status of being one of the best in this region.
Whatever you think about Brazilian coffee, forget it. This is a strikingly sweet and clean coffee, with complex cocoa nib aromatics, and even some ginger like sweet spice. Red Grape like brightness and caramel round out the cup!